I'm just a girl who likes to DIY anything and everything. More than that, I love teaching people - especially women - how to pick up power tools and create the home of their dreams. Stop waiting for someone else and starting Doing It Yourself. I'll show you how!
It’s time to make an office desk! The table that I am inspired by is from Restoration Hardware. It’s $2,100 and beautiful, but I want to spend less on a desk. So that is why we DIY! Here is my supplies list.
This project panel is 24×72, and it is too long, so I’m trimming it down to 24x60in. Then I am using my circular saw with my Kreg jig guide. I usually do this on the ground, but I clamped the desk on my work tabletop.
So, I am doing tapered legs for this desk. Then I have never done this before, but I saw my friend Lauren do it, and she learned it from Emily, so that is how I learned. I’m making a jig or a guide to make my four legs because I want them all to be the same. The jig consists of three parts. The first part is the side piece where the wood piece rests. It’s 1.5in because my wood is 1.5in.
The back of the board is just scraped pieces of wood. You can use whatever you have available. You can use nails because it’s temporary and doesn’t need to be screwed in. Then I’m bringing it to my miter saw. I clamp the jig to the miter saw and clamp the leg to the jig. The saw blade will cut through the leg and jig on your first cut. Leave your jig there for the rest of the cuts, only adding or removing the portions. This will give you your tapered amount.
Now I’m deciding where I want my legs. The table is upside down, and I like it here, which is 5/8 in from the edge. I marked this on my multi-mark tool for the other sides. Now I need to cut the middle board between the two legs. I was deciding if I wanted it with space, but I think I’ll do it flush.
I wanted to show you guys that just because I DIY all the time doesn’t mean I don’t make mistakes. For example, I made the board too short between the legs. I thought I had measured it, and I did, but then I forgot by the time I went over to the saw. So now I’ve cut my pieces, and it’s time for a million pocket holes. Good thing it’s so fun!
Did you know I have an Instagram TV all about pocket holes? If you’re new here, check out all my Teach Me Tuesday videos. Two tips, always use glue and use this tool to make sure your corners are square.
Once I drilled the pocket holes into all my pieces of wood, I began attaching them. I have three pocket holes going into each leg on each side. Then I have pocket holes throughout, going from table to top. Then there’s a lot of wood glue between everything that attaches to something else. So I first connected the middle pieces to the legs. Then I attach these to the top of the desk.
I’m at Lowe’s, and I’m grabbing my Minwax pre-stain. Then I remembered last time I showed you tons of solid colors, and you could do a more transparent or a more solid, but you can still see the wood grain. I found an ivory/almond color and I am getting it custom colored.
The final step before the staining process is to sand with 120 grit and then 220 grit. Then wipe down everything with a tack cloth.Next I will put on my favorite water-based pre-stain. I’m using a water-based pre-stain because my stain is water-based. If you’re using an oil-based paint, you will use the oil-based pre-stain. Whenever you use a pre-stain, stain, or topcoat, stir, not shake. Shaking causes air bubbles that will end up on your furniture piece, which you do not want.
I’m using a Minwax wood finish and a solid color stain which means that it will still show the wood grain, but it will be more solid and not as transparent. I got this at Lowe’s right next to the stains. There are over 240 colors that you can choose from. You take the court of staying up to the paint counter and telling them what color you want. Then they’ll custom-make it for you. I’m doing the white elm. The semi-transparent shows more wood, and the opaque shows less grain. This will look great and classy.
I’m going to answer some questions preemptively. You may be wondering why I didn’t just paint it ivory. The reason why is that it looks like paint but will show the wood grain. I wanted a piece of furniture with wood grain but still a bone ivory color. It’s going to look high-end. Another thing about this paint is that it is water-based. So it dries quickly. It can be dried in an hour, and I can put on my topcoat. Another thing about this paint is it has a one-coat finish. If you want it more intense, you can put on a second coat.
Let’s do this! Once again, you want to stir, not shake the same. This solid color stain works differently than regular stain. First, you put it on with a brush made for a water base and let it sit for one to two minutes. Then, you take a synthetic pad and wipe it off toward the grain. This is my first time doing it, so hopefully, I can get it right. This color is so pretty, though, and I am so excited. It is so satisfying and fun to wipe the stain with the pad. So I applied the stain and wiped it with the pad over the desk.
The next step is to paint a small section of each leg gold. I’m going to use this tape plus plastic. I made sure it was the same amount of gold for each leg. I just had TJ help me move the desk onto the back patio so I could spray paint it. I’m using Krylon metallic gold for the legs. Next, I spray-painted the legs with a few coats. I like to spray paint because it does not turn yellow. It gives a durable finish, and you can choose the sheen. I got the matte so that it is smooth. It’s my favorite.
Now that the legs are dry, I will use my favorite Minwax polyacrylic topcoat. I love this polyacrylic because it is water-based and goes on so well. After the first coat of polyacrylic is dried, I will lightly sand it with a 220-grit sanding block and wipe it down with a tack cloth. Then I will put on my second coat of polyacrylic. After that, you’re all done!